A Scene from the Back of the Bus

Traveling shows us that some things in life—like young love—are universal. This story unfolded on our way to visit the Trawupeyum Intercultural Museum in Curarrehue, Chile, which highlights the area’s indigenous Mapuche people. We were still talking about the experience hours later at a small café, while lingering over sopaipillas, a favorite Chilean snack.

The gray drizzle was doing nothing to dampen the mood of the students outside the bus station in Pucón, Chile. School had just let out for the summer and a giggly, shaggy line was forming for the ride home. The public bus does double-duty during the school year, so we got in line, too, for the ride to Curarrehue about 20 miles away.

We edged our way to the back of the bus and sat down. A couple of families found seats together. More students boarded to fill the gaps. A vendor selling nuts and candy climbed on, stopping at each row in anticipation of a sale. He was followed by another selling fruit, and yet another hawking foot cream.

A few seats away was a young boy—maybe 14 or 15 years old—with a gift-wrapped package on his lap. He was talking quietly with the girl in the seat in front of him. She smiled shyly, looked down modestly at her hands and then at her girlfriend in the seat beside her. The boy turned the package over in his hands a couple of times.

The bus stopped and a few passengers disembarked. The young couple continued to whisper softly.

Finally, the boy nervously lifted the gift to the back of her seat. She reached for it, surprised and delighted, savoring it for a moment in her hands. The girlfriend looked on excitedly. The girl slowly slid her fingers under the tape, releasing one seam, then another and another.  And then…it was open. A fancy make-up kit. The smile grew wider. The girlfriend approved. The boy was happy.

The bus slowed to a stop at an intersection where a small crowd had gathered. We watched the young couple float down the steps, the girl hugging the package and the boy a shadow behind her. Outside, she made her way to her waiting parents, eager to show off the gift. Mama looked at it, then at Papa. Papa looked at the gift, then at the boy, before turning his back. The little family started to walk away. The boy started to follow, but Papa dismissively waved him away.

The doors squeaked shut and the bus rumbled away as the boy stood alone. It was going to be a long summer.